Revisiting Ilocandia Part 1: Vigan City

For this summer, I returned to one my favorite destination in the country– Ilocos! Three years ago, I was just a newbie traveler, and my Ilocandia trip served as my crash course for “budget traveling 101″. That trip was also memorable because me and my travel sistah became close– and from there on our “itchy feet” became incurable. This time, three friends came along with us, so the fun was 3X!

To see my previous Vigan trip, click here.

Getting there

Catch a Partas or Fariňas bus going to Vigan or Laoag. There are also smaller buses that service the same route like Aniceto and RCJ. After waiting for almost two hours at Dau bus terminal, no Partas or Fariňas bus came! So we just took a RCJ bus– not recommended for the picky and paranoid traveler.  The bus is old, shaky and has a very noisy engine! I have been to the worst bus ride ever, so my RCJ experience was nothing to compare ha ha.  The fare from Dau bus terminal to Vigan City is 400 Php (about 9 USD). The trip lasted for 8 hours. Smaller buses bound to Laoag don’t usually enter the Vigan City proper. The drop-off point is in front of the Bantay Church.  From there, ride a tricycle to Plaza Salcedo or McDonald’s (the city center). Tricycle fare is 15 Php per person.

Tip: Travel at late at night, like around 11PM or 12 MN. It is much faster to travel at night due to less traffic, and you can just sleep through-out the duration of the trip. You’ll arrive at your destination in the morning, and have plenty of time to explore the place.

The Quirino Bridge is not passable anymore– a new bridge is being used.

We we’re dropped-off in front of Bantay Church.

Breakfast at McDonald’s.

Accommodation

I have been in Vigan twice but I never had the opportunity to stay for the night. So this time, we decided to experience Vigan after dark. We stayed at the Aniceto Mansion Tourist Inn and Restaurant, which is an ancestral house turned in to a tourist inn. I’m fascinated by the beauty and sophistication of old Spanish architecture, so it was a delight for me to stay here.

Aniceto Mansion is right for the budget!

My two friends in front of Aniceto Mansion.

We opted for a room good for 5 persons, which costs 3,500 Php (76 USD), including breakfast. The room has 5 single beds and a double deck, aircon, cable tv and bathroom. For couples, a double room costs 1,200 Php (26 USD). The inn has a café, where the complimentary breakfast is served until 10AM. The breakfast includes a cup of fried rice, two Vigan longganisa, fried egg and a cup of brewed coffee. The staff are very friendly, especially Manang who received us when we arrived.

At the lobby.

The rooms are located upstairs.

Aniceto Mansion is located at  Mena Crisologo St., in front of the Burgos Plaza, beside the upscale Vigan Plaza Hotel. If you’re coming from Plaza Salcedo or McDonald’s, just walk straight on the street between the Vigan Cathedral and bell tower– Aniceto Mansion is smacked at the end of the street. For reservation and information you can reach them at these  mobile phone numbers: +639183819437 or +639085555720.

In front of McDonald’s– just walk to reach Aniceto Mansion.

First Day: Kalesa Tour

To see the important spots in the city, the kalesa tour is necessary. Kalesa are horse drawn carriage, found all over the city. The kalesa tour cost Php 150/hour (4 USD) and can accommodate maximum of 3 persons. It will take about 4 – 5 hours to see all the attractions. The kalesa driver knows exactly the places that you need to see. Below are the spots that we visited:

Group picture with the kalesa.

Bantay Church and Bell Tower

The Bantay church is also a relatively old church, distinct for its maroon colored façade. At the far right side, you’ll see the bell tower. It’s made of red clay bricks, built by the Spanish to watch the sea of coming threats or enemies. You have to climb the staircase to reach the top, in which where the huge bell is located, plus a very nice view awaits you. Last time I was there, there was an entrance fee of 20 Php, but during our time of visit there was no entrance fee.  Instead, a donation box is provided– at least drop some amount for the maintainance of the site. A guide is now provided for free, but again, give the guide small amount for “snacks”, as courtesy.

Bantay Church

Bantay bell tower

Jump shot in front of the bell tower.

The view from the bell tower– those white structures are tombs.

Syquia Mansion

A recognized heritage house turned in to a museum. There are family photos of the former Philippine president, Elpidio Quirino, a distinguished son of Ilocos Sur. Upstairs, antique paintings and artifacts are found. There’s an entrance free of 20 Php.

Outside the mansion.

The dining room.

There’s a white lady in the bedroom..

An open area upstairs!

Crisologo Museum

The museum is the former residence of one of Ilocos Sur’s famous political family, the Crisologos. The head of the family, the former governor of Ilocos Sur, Floro Crisologo was assinated during the 70’s. He was shot point blank at the back of his head while kneeling and praying inside the Vigan Cathedral. Inside the museums are the family’s memorabilia, including the assassination photos of the late governor. There’s no entrance fee, but atleast give a small amount as donation.

Come inside..

Crisologo family portraits and memorabilia.

Some of Mrs. Crisologo’s perfume collections.

This kalesa was used in the film “Maruja”.

Burnayan

Burnay means pots, and Burnayan means pottery shop. We went there in the afternoon, but no one is available to tour us around. If possible come in the morning. On my last visit, kuya Bing-bong was there. He showed us around and even demonstrated how they make clay pots.

No one was around, except for these chickens.

Calle Crisologo

Our kalesa tour culminated in the main street of the Heritage Village, Calle Crisologo. This street is lined with old Spanish colonial houses, museums, antique stores and souvenir shops.

Walking and having good laugh with friends.

We’re so happy!!

We spent the whole afternoon strolling and goofing around, taking photos and checking out shops. The best buys for pasalubongs (gift items for the family or friends from travel) are small coin purse made of woven fabric, knitted shawls and bags and hats made of indigenous materials. I bought a large beach hat for only 80 Php (less than 2 USD).

Don’t forget to buy pasalubongs!

These bags are nice pasalubong.

When we got tired and hungry, we bought halo-halo (shaved iced with milk, tapioca and sweetened fruits) at a street side stall. Enjoying a refreshing halo-halo at the middle of Calle Crisologo was just awesome!

Try a very refreshing glass of halo-halo!

Cheers!!

Night came, and Calle Crisologo was a sight to behold. The soft light added to the romance and charm of this place! Someday, I would like to return here with my special someone (hopeless romantic here!).

Calle Crisologo at dusk..

Enjoying a night stroll.

Empanadahan

After an enjoyable night at Calle Crisologo, we went to the Empanadahan to re-fill our bottomless stomachs! The Empanadahan is near Plaza Burgos at the side of McDonald’s. This place is lined with several stalls, where you can enjoy the city’s specialty, Empanada. This is a popular street food, which resembles a crepe. The filling is made of vegetables, like cabbage and carrots with meat and whole egg and then deep fried until golden and crisp. Don’t forget to dip in vinegar for full flavor!

You can watch while they make empanadas.

Yum! Yum!

Night Life

For the party people, the “Legacy” club along Calle Crisologo is the place to be. We went to Vigan to enjoy its laid-back atmosphere– leave the partying back home (just a suggestion).

In front of Legacy club– but we’re not in party mode!

Other Sites

We skipped the other spots in the city, like the Baluarte and Burgos museum. But you can always ask the kalesa driver to bring you there. You just have to pay the extra hours. Just see me previous post about Vigan for info on these two sites.

Second Day: Around the Plaza

After our breakfast, we spent the whole morning visiting sites near Aniceto Mansion. The following sites are reachable by foot:

Plaza Burgos

This small park is located just in front if the Aniceto Mansion. The Empanahadan is also around here.

Walking through Plaza Burgos to Aniceto Mansion.

Plaza Salcedo

This park has a small man-made lake at the center, however, during the time of our visit it has dried up (blame it on El Nino?). At the end of the plaza you will see the Vigan Cathedral, and then at the opposite end is the Ilocos Sur Capitol Building.

Take a morning walk at Plaza Salcedo.

Vigan Cathedral

The Vigan Cathedral, also known as St. Paul’s Cathedral was built by the Spanish conquistadores in 1641.

Say your prayer at Vigan Cathedral.

Ilocos Sur Capitol

The capitol building is painted with bright yellow-orange color. I like it!

Love the color of the capitol!

City Hall

What can I say? Even the city hall is painted with shade of yellow.

Vigan City Hall

Morning Market

You can buy everything here, from clothes, souvenir items, shoes, slippers etc. Just walk straight from the city hall.

Striking a pose behind the wall of colorful sandals.

After eating our lunch, we went to the Partas bus terminal and continue our Ilocandia trip to Ilocos Norte to our main destination, Pagudpud!

Partas bus terminal.. see you in Ilocos Norte!

To read Revisiting Ilocandia Part 2: Pagudpud, click here. (to be posted later)

To see my previous Vigan trip, click here.

I heart Vigan!

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Song of the Day:
CELEBRATION (Ben Bennasi Remix) by Madonna. Life is a big celebration!!

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DISCLAIMER: Prices may go up, establishments may go bankrupt. It is recommended that you also check or research about the fares, fees and prices for your own convenience. The author of this blog is not connected with any of the hotels, resorts or establishments mentioned.

Exchange rate during the time of travel: 1 USD = 46 Php

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